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Refinishin wood swim platform

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    Posted: June-27-2011 at 11:49pm
Thanks for all the pics and specific product results. Wish I found this thread a few weeks ago. I used the Te-Ka brand stripper and brightener, and I LOVED how that worked. The problem is that I chose the Daily's hard-drying teak oil. While it looks just gorgeous in the garage, I do fear it's going to lift and such over the season. I'm not planning on stripping it off for this season (yet) but even before finding this forum and thread, after seeing the completed result, I was wishing I had chosen a true 'oil'. I could certainly see a use for the Daily's product (I'm not ripping it) just not for a swim step.

Also, my swim step is the more trapezoid shape, with no open slots in it, and the underside is separating and cracking. I actually expect to have to rebuild it soon, maybe this coming winter.

Live and learn,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2011 at 2:00am
I just put on coat # 7 My question is can I coat it once a month till I put the boat away in the fall? If I follow this schedule can I just maintain it and never have to clean it again?
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2011 at 3:55pm



I used the starbrite teak oil restoration kit and it worked awesome. You should have seen the dirt and filth coming off after I used the cleaning step. It really brought it back to life but I used the whole bottle of teak oil and had to buy another, a total of 6 coats. Its been holding for a few weeks. I will probably give it one more again before I take it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-30-2011 at 2:53pm
been working on my platform while I find the time to fix the prop and shaft..
Its been cold, rainy and windy..normal fall weather..so i´m not in a hurry to have the boat in the water...





Total of 5 coats on each side...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NC_Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2011 at 12:15am
I just put one full coat on mine today. A pressure washer was my choice of cleaning. I put it in the sun today and it soaked up a 1/3 a bottle or starbite teak oil. Mine looks dark but lighten up as it dried.

It is going to look sweet on the boat. I'm ready for the water!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 9:07pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Ive actually found that the type of teak oil has very little effect on the platform color. Ive used Star Brite and Amazon and could not tell a difference.

I think the color of your teak is the color of your teak, and theres little you can do to change it (at least by oiling it). Each platform will be slightly different. My '90 is very light in color, our BFN is very dark, and my dad's '03 is a medium orangy-red. We put the same oil on all of them.

Tim,
West brand does have a "dark" version. I have a bottle of it and it does darken the Teak. This is good especially if you have gone through the complete cleaning process which includes the "brightener". Also, aniline dye powders for oil based finishes are available for tinting. Aniline dye powder at Woodworker supply


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:45pm
Had a pair of my favorite Cypress Gardens Mustang combo skis in the ski locker of a buddy's sport. His tranny was leaking a smidge and the water/oil soaked my skis for a while without our knowledge. Best thing to ever happen to the skis. They look new and are super waterproof lol

Oh and the boats fixed too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:33pm
Ive actually found that the type of teak oil has very little effect on the platform color. Ive used Star Brite and Amazon and could not tell a difference. Ive even tried a magic blend of teak oil, boiled linseed oil and Automatic Transmission Fluid in an attempt to darken mine... and it didnt do a thing.

I think the color of your teak is the color of your teak, and theres little you can do to change it (at least by oiling it). Each platform will be slightly different. My '90 is very light in color, our BFN is very dark, and my dad's '03 is a medium orangy-red. We put the same oil on all of them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:32pm
We used the sealer on the 90. Worked great for a long time but now it's starting to come up in a couple places, by come up I mean look patchy I guess. I'd love to strip it and re-teak oil it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:26pm
That makes sense, I used the Teak Oil Sealer from Starbrite, that must be why the color is similar.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:22pm
Our platform was in pretty good shape, just dry. So...I just slapped some of this on it. (we have been using the same stuff for years) Love the color it brings. Coat two went on the top last night...not sure if it'll need another one or not.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 6:17pm
Mike, you obviously have a better camera then me, but that color looks pretty close to mine. What product did you use?

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 5:43pm
Same here...Almost got busted.

Can I share my teak job?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 4:30pm
Originally posted by IAughtNaut IAughtNaut wrote:

Apparently I need to be more careful when browsing these forums at work...


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Apparently I need to be more careful when browsing these forums at work...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 2:37pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

   


Thanks Pete, Don't know why I love coming back to this thread.

[/QUOTE]

Now I see why this thread is still alive. There's just not much left to say about oiling yer teak...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 2:19pm
[/QUOTE]

Thanks Pete, Don't know why I love coming back to this thread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 2:01pm
Alan,
You won't get any heat from me!!! In fact, I wouldn't be surprised that the first CPES was made by someone familiar with wood finishes and had done plenty of varnishing bright work!

BTW, tung oil and Teak oil finishes always state on the can that you do not leave any on the surface!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by DrCC DrCC wrote:

Oil finishes were meant to be "Rubbed-In".


Exactly, excess will simply not get absorbed and will gel on the surface.

Here's a trick that I may take some heat for but I cut my first 2 coats of oil with a little mineral spirits to make it thinner. I feel it penetrates the old wood deeper. After 2 coats I then apply oil straight from the bottle. I always brush on, wait 5 minutes, rub in. I try to go at least a few days and more when I have the time, between coats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2011 at 1:04pm
Oil finishes were meant to be "Rubbed-In".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 88 S NAUTIQUE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2011 at 10:16pm
If you put oo much oil on the platform and it is still sticky the next day, wipe it down with straight mineral spirits. Will dry with the nice unshiny yet smooth look you want. Went into panic mode when my platform was shiny and still sticky 24 hrs. later!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweet77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2011 at 2:34am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

   
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Silicone does not belong below the waterline.
3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

Malcolm,
Have you ever been able to literally peel silicone off a surface? Silicone bathtub caulking is a good example but it holds true with any of the silicones. It's adhesion is poor! The only place it's good for is when it's between two surfaces/flanges like a subsitute for a gasket and even then I'd suggest something like Permatex! Yes, you can say the platform brackets against the transom are two surfaces but the bolts and their holes are not. If there was a silicone under the brackets originally, I'd say most of it you were able to peel off. Try to get 5200 or 4200 off and you'll see the difference.

I hate silicone!!!




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweet77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2011 at 2:32am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

   
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Silicone does not belong below the waterline.
3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

Malcolm,
Have you ever been able to literally peel silicone off a surface? Silicone bathtub caulking is a good example but it holds true with any of the silicones. It's adhesion is poor! The only place it's good for is when it's between two surfaces/flanges like a subsitute for a gasket and even then I'd suggest something like Permatex! Yes, you can say the platform brackets against the transom are two surfaces but the bolts and their holes are not. If there was a silicone under the brackets originally, I'd say most of it you were able to peel off. Try to get 5200 or 4200 off and you'll see the difference.

I hate silicone!!!




There are some types i dont mind
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweet77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2011 at 2:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimSpangler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 1:56pm
4 Coats of Star Brite teak oil and 3 coats of Watco teak oil.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 11:42am
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Silicone does not belong below the waterline.
3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

Malcolm,
Have you ever been able to literally peel silicone off a surface? Silicone bathtub caulking is a good example but it holds true with any of the silicones. It's adhesion is poor! The only place it's good for is when it's between two surfaces/flanges like a subsitute for a gasket and even then I'd suggest something like Permatex! Yes, you can say the platform brackets against the transom are two surfaces but the bolts and their holes are not. If there was a silicone under the brackets originally, I'd say most of it you were able to peel off. Try to get 5200 or 4200 off and you'll see the difference.

I hate silicone!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 11:28am
Silicone does not belong below the waterline.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 12:26am
Originally posted by mglines mglines wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

The problem with removing brackets from the boat is that the top fasteners are not screws, theyre bolts with backing nuts, so its a 2 person job to remove them. They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Depending on how badly your platform needs refinishing, you might want to remove the brackets from the teak anyways. Its just a few screws either way (no sealant neccessary) so not a big deal.


This is what I thought and why did not try to take the brakets off the boat. Thank you for this post.


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wacko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 9:51pm
My 80 has lags on the top and wood screws on bottom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 6:24pm
Originally posted by TimSpangler TimSpangler wrote:

Both my 82 and 83 had lags in the top and wood screw in the bottom.

Fascinating. I believe Jimsport's Sport Nautique was the same.

Both my '79 and '90 had bolts on top, lags/screws on the bottom. I guess CC was inconsistent for several decades!
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