oil pump

Not exactly, It was more like if you are going to do all that you need to get some more parts, Then it was you have not ran the motor or used it to see what it needs. I agreed with him on the parts, and need to make some room at home so I do not have the motor hanging from a tree.
Shade Tree Anyway found some gt40p heads waiting to get them and freshened up. So rear main?
Mike

Eric,
I thought everything was okay. Parked on incline and was bleeding right in the center of motor against the flywheel cover. Not sure if this is rear main or pan. Let my ultra conservative Dad talk me into putting it back together. I think he was ready to get me out of his shop.
Mike

Thanks,
The other oil pump had gaskets on backwards, The small hole covering up the big hole and vice versa on the other one. The oil pan bolts were about to fall out. Any way got it back together. I have not ran the motor so I am going to install and see how it does, Owner told me it was rebuilt and has about 300hrs on it everything looked fresh. I was changing the cork gasket on oil pan and decided to do pump while I was there. Also changed valve cover gaskets.

Nevermind .... Too slow

It goes to the top Mike. It's there so when you pull out the distributor it stays in the oil pump. If it was not there the drive shaft can pull out of the pump side and more than likely drop off the distributor end and fall back into the pan with a sicking sound.

My cousin built the motor in my Mustang back in '98. He builds a lot of race engines. He told me he put the Melling in for high rpms. A he also knocked a hole out next to the distributor for oil flow. But my boat hardly sees anything over 3,000 rpms.

Thanks for all of your guys suggestions, I went with the melling stock and drive shaft. It became real clear what you guys were talking about, once I was able to spend some time and sort through the mis-information highway. Here is another question Do you guys use any silicon on the gaskets at the oil pump? ONE How much slack should there be in the timing chain?

As far as a HV oil pump goes - I dont give the extra hp loss a second thought, but the extra strain on the distributor gear and the timing chain keeps me up at night. Of course I have been towed home in the middle of the night because I wore through the teeth on my distributor gear... so I am little more sensitive to these things. Even just quicker wear on the gear and chain limit your ability to closely control your timing and maintain a well tuned engine.

The clearances on the engine determine pressure you will build up... if you are not going to turn the crank and or replace the main bearings and your oil pressure was on the low side to begin with there may be a case for a higher volume pump, all these things work together so they are hard to address one at a time.

eric lavine wrote: if you guys have ever primed an engine with a drill, you'll know what im talking about, a fresh engine is perfectly fine using a normal stock pump

Yep, I use a pretty stout 1/2" drill and the stem from an old distributer and it gets a workout. Stock melling pump.

How does a small pump put so much strain on an engine compared to a compresser or some other kind of external accessory? I've read a bit about the HV versus stock pumps and it's one of those topics that gets beat to death. The only reason to have a HV pump that might make sense to me is if you have external coolers and filters, but you got to wonder why they aren't OEM.

high volumes put to much strain on an engine, they were invented for worn out engines, if you want higher oil pressure put in thicker oil, unless someone can come up with a better explanation of why to use a HV pump please list it....really it is one of those taboo things when someone else builds an engine for you....030 over, hv pump, 500 hp, what they really mean is i dont know what the fck im talking about...first off you bore to clean, .030 may make you 2 hp, and the hv will rob it, 500 hp means 275 lol

When you get a new pump get a new one of these too

link

I have also read that F1 engines were running 10psi oil pressure and that was in the days BMW engines were turning 19K.Not sure now though, engines have to last more than 1 race.

Heck if I know Why does dodge put ball joints on vehicles that fall out in 6 months. Bling would be putting a nice shiny eldebrock intake on. I was trying to insure a proper rebuild starting with the heart of the motor. As for bearing clearances and so forth I must admit I am really not sure and really not sure if I can handle all of the rebuild. I am more of a bolt on Mechanic.
I do value your guys opinion and know the 351 to be an excellent oiler.
Mike

Thanks guys,
I talked to a few people and all seemed to think that the 1/2 hp I would miss would be made up for in the long run of better flow.
Mike

Mike,
Engine rotation doesn't come to play with distributors or oil pumps. With both no matter the engine rotation turn the same way. This is due to the gear on the cam and on the end of the distributor that are specific to engine rotation.

I'm not a fan of HV pumps ether. Not needed and they do rob HP.