Starter for 351W GT40

After spending a ton of money on cables, I gave up on this issue. I still have the starting issue with a new solenoid. Does anyone know if this starter will fit the boat:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FORD-MARINE-STARTER-18-5920-70125-70114-70110-70200-/360401248268?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item53e996a00c#ht_3426wt_1397

The picture is before I started to file them down.

I'm going to purchase some new cables while I have the floor and clamshell out. I've wanted a longer positive cable, the current one barely reaches my Blue Sea switch.

Has anyone used this place: http://greatlakesskipper.com/

Hmmmm, wouldn't have guessed that about over filing the terminal ends. Good to know.

Of course, whether or not the fix is permanent, if you see a chance in the way your starter behaves (ie cranks stronger), you know you're on the right path, and it's not the starter itself.

Is the black lead the before picture and the red one after you filed? Once you have gone thru the silver layer and exposed the copper it will corrode even faster

I'll second the Genuine Dealz recommendation. Great service and very quick, if you make your own cables get some extra solider and fittings it takes a couple of try's to get the process dialed in.

I've checked voltage at battery, first relay, and then second relay. They didn't change by much, but I didn't check it while cranking. I'll get an ohm reading across the starter relay on the starter.

I'd at least double the size of cable that's in it now. Also a good indicator of bad cables is getting voltage at the battery when cranking and then voltage at the starter when cranking. Disconnecting the battery cable to the starter and then getting a Ohm ready across the starter relay will also tell the condition of the contacts. It should be near zero. A low voltage condition will cause a high amp (Ohm's law) load on the relay. That can weld the contacts together. Have you been doing any trouble shooting with a volt/ohm meter?

I too have never replaced a starter.

Kind of hard to recommend what to do when you don't fill in your profile.If you have alot of money,sure just start throwing parts at it eventually you'll get it to work. Our family has engines going back to the 40's,we have yet to buy a starter. Take it in to an electrical shop like here they can test them and if need be repair rather than replace. Check your yellow pages or the web for a place near you.

It's a true car battery Evermaxx 65N. It's cranked the same since battery was new.

Battery cables could be the cause. These look to be original. What gauge would you recommend?

What kind of shape is your battery in? Also, you're using a starting battery, right? A lot of people mistakenly install deep cycle batteries.

Also, go through all of your wiring, take things apart, clean sand, re-install/click back together and use dialectic grease. Clean your battery terminals and connections as well.

I'm not sure if the solenoids directly on the starter can be replaced separately. I don't think so.

Check out M3Fan's post in this thread:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23479&KW=starter&PID=317909&title=00-sport--surging-starting-questions#317909

Your boat may have come from the factory with a double relay setup (remote and starter mounted relays). Or, someone may have retrofitted as such to use the newer style starters.

Before you go replacing your starter, confirm that your remote relay is sending juice to it.

Do you have a picture of the starter that's on your boat now? Does it have a solenoid right on it or does it just have the "hump"?