Carb Rebuild '88 2001

My local shop will boil it....

Just the part where you blew it out....not sure if you had soaked it or now.

it's not that bad...the mass of information out there can be confusing though...

MI-nick wrote: P71_CrownVic wrote: Ok...here comes my OCD kicking in. When you need to take pictures of something very close up, zoom all the way OUT and look for this logo on your camera: i'm familiar with macro mode...the fuel/air screw and accelerator pump nozzle photos above were taken with macro mode.

Don't take it the wrong way..I wasn't trying to be an ass.   

It just seems like a TON of people haven't a clue as to what macro mode is and I try and educate when I can.

No harm, no foul.

Luchog wrote: we use an ultrasonic washer for the carbs at the shop

Harbor freight has one that goes on sale every once in a while. Have been wanting to get one for a while.

Mnboater wrote: Boiling is an old term. It means to take the parts and put them in a parts washer which has very nasty chemicals like MEK inside. The little gooseneck tube pumps this fluid thorough whatever part you aim it at and hence boiling, for the constant movement of the fluid. Most parts stores dont have this stuff anymore and new fuels are so mild, that they dont require its use. Check at your local airport. Those guys still have really strong stuff to do airplane parts with. Ask an old timer at the greasiest garage in town. He might know a guy who knows a guy. The technique really works and your parts will look like brand new after an overnight boil!

Bruce,
I feel you are misinformed or are using the wrong terms.

Boiling in a tank was commonly used (some shops still have them) for dropping an engine block into a heated tank filled with a caustic - typically sodium hydroxide.

The parts washer is for just general degreasing and typically uses a stodard solvent and not MEK.

The aerospace guys still use a vapor degreaser with TCE in it. We have one here at the plant and it is truely the best way to completely degrease a part since you are not recirculating dirty solvent back over the part like a parts washer does.

Carb cleaning buckets of a solvent mix are available at all auto parts stores. This is what you want to soak your carb in.

I will take my whippin sir. I thought I had it right but will defer for a score of 50%. MEK is good stuff. Lethal of course but it works for cleaning stuff thats got goo on it. The parts washer might have lots of different stuff in it, but it certainly is WAY more effective than a spray can that some of these posts are eluding to. And Air can push a too big granule tight into an orifice, and there it will stay. Allowing amatuers the opportunity to improve on the time it took to rebuild the first time. How do I know? Yup been there. I can rebuild my snowmobile mikunis now on a hotel counter in about 20 minutes.

So what is the toughest stuff available for todays parts washer suitable for a carb? Is it worth it or just a waste of money and farm out the job to the guys at the local airport?

Thats the same stuff I used on mine... good enough to strip the dichromate finish off a Holley if you soak it too long! (Dont ask me how I know.)

TRBenj wrote: Thats the same stuff I used on mine... good enough to strip the dichromate finish off a Holley if you soak it too long! (Dont ask me how I know.)

sure is...

Nick,

You are inspiring me to rebuild my carb. Was that 3/4 Gallon container large enough to submerge the carb? I was quessing that a larger container would be needed.

Donald

Here are some before and after pic's of a 600 I did this summer to try on my boat someday-

Gary, did you paint that with something?

Justin, I used this Eastwood plating kit on the hardware


Then I sprayed this carb renew on


I don't know how it will hold up I have not put in on yet.

finished the rebuild the other day while i was home sick. i kept the vent baffle in the same orientation as one of the above photos (really there is no other reasonable way it could go on). i didn't monkey with the float levels either. the secondary bowl was dead nuts level. the primary was slightly less than level (i.e. higher fuel level)...some said level...some said it should have a higher fuel level...i left it alone.

i read that the float bowl bolts should be torqued to 40 inch pounds...my torque wrench doesn't go that low so i used the red neck method...the N on the wrench was 4" from the ctr of the socket...so i pulled with 10 pounds from that location with my fish scale...close enough.


done


and done. the balance tube was tricky to get installed and sealed properly in each bowl...just takes a little time and some twisting.


these are all the old parts that were replaced


leftover parts from the rebuild kit


thanks for all the good advice

Donald80SN wrote: Nick, Thanks for sharing. I am going to try this over the winter. Do you anticipate having to dial it in or on your reassembly you put everything back to orginal settings? Mine runs great but my Power Valve will hesitate about 1 out of 5 times I pull up a skier. Thanks, Donald

i did put everything back to original, but i do still anticipated some minor tuning (air/fuel screws and idle speed).

one think i forgot to mention above is that i hopefully corrected a high idle after a hard run issue. the secondaries were hanging open a bit...there is a rod that controls this that i removed and re-bend to eliminate any slop in the secondary butterflies...hopefully that should do the trick.

An old thread I know but just seen this in the FAQ section, these cork gaskets are interesting as my carb doesnt have them.
Although Im surprised they would fit as look to have a larger diameter than the screws?
My tique has a tendency to stall when first dropping it in the water and shifting trans into gear, this problem goes away after the engine has warmed up but is an issue as it can take ages to first pull away. Maybe its due to not having these gaskets? The only way I can get around the issue at the moment is to crank up the idle screw, then once warmed up screwing it back down again.

Although the PO has also removed the electronic choke, I suppose thats a more likely cause? Anyone else had a similar problem?

Thanks

MI-nick wrote: fuel/air screws and new cork gaskets