BAD BAD day - HELP

Spoke to a local machine shop today. They wanted 290 plus any parts needed to re work the heads obviously after checking for cracks and what not.

What's you guys thoughts on that price? This is my first time and that was the first shop I called. Plan on calling a couple more tomorrow.

Also what all should I be requesting regarding service to the heads from the machine shop?

For around 600 you can get a set gt40p ready to bolt on.
That will put you with almost 40hp over the stock head...

In the driveway, did you suck the water rout of a bucket, or hook the hose directly to the intake?

The price sounds pretty right on for a complete head service. The parts associated with the head rebuild I doubt will be more than 100 bucks. So you will probably be out the door for around 350. Did he quote you a 3 angle job or just a standard? If you are thinking of keeping the thing you may well go with the GT-40P heads but if not and you want to save a couple hundred just incase you have to put it into the engine for a rebuild there's that.

The 240 horse engine isn't really a slouch in a 2001 hull especially coupled with the hotrod ACME 540 prop.

ok guys I think this is where the water was getting in. bad intake gasket i think.


I understand what you guys are saying about the upgraded heads but I really dont need that much more power than she already has. And if i want to go that route one day I can sell the heads I have now cause they will be rebuilt.

I think im more concerned with getting this thing to work with what it was originally setup for. Is that way off mark? any big issues with the current heads other than less power?

So Plans are I am going to drop off the heads friday. should i bring him that intake manifold also?

Shouldn't be any issues as long as they check out ok. Might want the shop to do a light surface of all mating surfaces since water and corrosion seems to have been an issue.

Rebuilt my 240 horse heads (86 vintage) 7 years and 640 +/- hours ago. Drive it like I stole it.

newguy1986 wrote: also I know maybe my constant questions are annoying but im adding pics!! and im finally making progress and not giving up!

Not annoying at all Andrew! I really enjoy threads like this, figuring out a problem and fixing it with help of a bunch of knowledgeable people here. I want to learn because it will be my turn with the problem next time.

Joe, I'm with you on that being the best method, but I think Andrew just wants to put it all together and see if he can run. I've done that before, in the face of possible failure, and sometimes you get lucky. Think it's that big of a mistake?

ok ok ok hold the phone.

there are two issues that are what Im assuming are a result from over heating. One is water in the oil, and two was a slight knocking noise from what I am comforable saying is an unknown source but is figured to be in the trans. This is something I need to dive into.

I plan was to understand and fix the issues with the water in the oil and then get her started. I feel like its a trans issue from there. Im also assuming i can unbolt the trans without taking the motor out- that thinking could be wrong.

Now, I feel like i have found the issue with the water in the oil in some bad gaskets. I think cleaning up the heads and rebuilding them would assume they would perform as factory? is that not the case? so if i can fix those get it put back together. clean out the oil and get it tuned I can move towards the knock.

I hear ya when your saying "just spend more money and get new heads" but explain other than more horse power, why i should go back with what it came with from the factory.

So its not 600 in heads its 600 + 250 for an intake also...

well for 1725 i could just get a totally rebuilt motor...

and for 125,000 I could get a new boat....

to the point about the heads not worth as much as they are to rebuild...thats basically trying to argue this is actually a sound investment... come on...

reworking the heads that are on it now seems like the way im going to go. unless some one can explain why they are better as an anchor... they were working just fine and had enough power for a 300 pound man to get up on a wakeboard before. Im not racing this thing I just want it to run and run smoothly.

Remind me what is wrong with those heads?

I'm not a gear head but I'm with baitkiller on this one. Fresh gaskets all around and go skiing.

Sheet son! They are only 225 now? Go ahead for that price. Tim you know better than me but you really think that thing can grab 40 extra ponies breathing through that straw like stock intake? Impressive.

They will hog out the head bolt holes to 351 size for free if you tell them before you order FYI.

I was going to get the heads checked. while they are off i dont see why that is unreasonable. If they come back not cracked and workable why wouldnt i have them clean them up / re work them and get them back up to snuff?

I will get the intake checked at the same time. then put it back together.

I mean honestly lets here what you guys think cause I dont know anything when it comes to this stuff. I am not the guy that is always looking for more horse power either. Im assuming from inspection of the top half of the motor im good regarding the block assembly and all that. Im assuming I have had gasket issues. Im assuming putting it all back together I can get the oil to clear up with multiple oil changes.

Im not looking to rebuild the whole motor if it doesnt need it. Im not one to take stuff apart that works.

juniorwoody wrote: This thread has become informational and very interesting to me. Wish I could have gotten as much input in Oct when I posted very similar issues with my Atom Skier. The heads are now on a bench as we slow but sure hope to get the intakes removed from the heads so we can send them out. It seems the long bolts mushroomed inside and dont want to allow release. My head gaskets showed smoking gun blow by at the valley area so i plan to send the heads to a shop for recondition and hope to reinstall. Whether this's all occurs before March will make the difference between a static display or a runner at Tavares. The boat is currently in Florida minus heads

Jack,
Difference here is that your skier is a totally different engine that, to my knowledge, heads would be few, if any at all available. Your only option is to have them rebuilt or repaired. Again, I'm certainly not an expert, but that engine is one very of us have any kind of experience with and the general concensus for any kind of engine in a boat like that is keep it original...or the rath of Pete comes down on you like fire and brimstone.
We're talking about heads that are readily avaiable, really cheap and can be upgraded to much better performance for a really small amount of money in an engine that's putting out three or four times the HP yours is.
Apples and oranges completely and sorry to say, not a lot of expertice in your specific situation.

newguy1986 wrote: I was going to get the heads checked. while they are off i dont see why that is unreasonable. If they come back not cracked and workable why wouldnt i have them clean them up / re work them and get them back up to snuff?

Listen to what Tim said. By the time you have them checked (which you have to disassemble to do) the natural progression is to "clean them up and rework them to get them back up to snuff" while you have them apart in the first place. They aren't worth the time and effort to do that. They'll cost $350-$375 (with parts) at very minimum to do what you're thinking.
You can buy like new, reconditioned heads that flow much better than original with new valves, new guides, new springs and a valve grind already done for another $75-$100.

So, either get new gakets with the stock heads, bolt them on and call it a day (hoping they aren't cracked) or buy new heads and new gaskets, bolt them on and you know they're good. I know getting the extra 40HP doesn't appeal to you at all so let's just call it an added benefit.