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1986 BFN Rebuild |
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LennyBoat 
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Joined: May-22-2023 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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 Topic: 1986 BFN RebuildPosted: April-25-2024 at 8:29am |
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Thank you all for your input. We started the rewire and in the end it isn't as intimidating as it seemed. We just needed a little nudge to start and i'm guessing we'll be done by the end of this week. I'll double check our work with Andrews picture to make sure we dind't make any mistakes. |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10688 |
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Posted: April-17-2024 at 12:43pm |
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The only real difference is the terminal connection locations on the back of the gauges and wiring hookup to the gauges.
VDO had spade type connectors Teleflex had studs with nuts
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andrewmarani
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Joined: May-31-2005 Location: Baltimore, MD Status: Offline Points: 217 |
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Posted: April-17-2024 at 8:58am |
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Didn't know there were different wiring for the VDO vs Teleflex. My gauges are VDO.
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Builder
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Kristof
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Joined: October-08-2007 Location: Bree, Belgium Status: Offline Points: 3391 |
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Posted: April-17-2024 at 3:03am |
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Lenny,
What KENO said. The wiring diagrams in the Reference Section helped me solve some problems on my dash. For good measure here's the link: '86 Wiring diagram |
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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle... |
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KENO
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Posted: April-16-2024 at 7:05pm |
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Lenny
Since I don't see any mention of dash wiring diagrams, I thought I'd mention that there's a wiring diagram listed as an 86 in the CCF Reference section under manuals. It was drawn in August 84 so it would be for an 85 you'd think, and carry over to 86. There are 2 versions shown one for VDO gauges like yours and another for Teleflex gauges It'll help you keep it "color correct" with the wiring
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andrewmarani
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Joined: May-31-2005 Location: Baltimore, MD Status: Offline Points: 217 |
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Posted: April-16-2024 at 4:46pm |
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Resolution looks better on my computer than it is after I uploaded the pictures. PM me and I can email you the pictures, might be able to follow the wiring better.
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andrewmarani
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Posted: April-16-2024 at 4:38pm |
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Wow, that's in pieces. Front of your dash looks like mine, so they should be pretty close or the same.
First picture is the back of the dash before I rewired it. Note there are some repaired wires on the before picture, done when I was replacing the RPM gauge, anything I repaired has marine grade heat shrink terminal connectors. Most of the old connectors are dark blue.
Second picture is after it's rewired. The coiled up wires next to the two terminal blocks will connect to the old power wires under the bow. I added watertight terminals that I can disconnect to the ends so I can pull the dash without cutting anything if I need to pull it again. I have to stick my head up under the bow and check where I landed them but I think I ran an additional ground from the engine and a power wire from the solenoid to the dash because the wires supplying power and ground that are part of the old system are too small gauge wise. Good ratchet crimpers are a must for doing this neatly, just FYI. I can get some pictures of the back of the rewired dash installed if needed. Boat is currently under my back deck at the tail end of stringer replacement. Let me know.   |
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samudj01
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Joined: March-10-2009 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 943 |
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Posted: April-15-2024 at 10:52am |
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I just rewired my dash in my 93SN. If you haven't seen the thread, take a look. I tried to put some good pics in there. It is current;y on page two and is called, newtome93SkiNautique. Good luck.
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78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409
Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
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LennyBoat
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Posted: April-12-2024 at 3:04am |
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Hi Andrew,
Many thanks in advance. As far as I know, the dash wiring should (mostly) be the same between the SN & the BFN. We bought the boat already disassembled , which is what makes some parts a bit more complicated. herewith the view of the dash/cluster (VDO gauges) as it is:  
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andrewmarani
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Posted: April-10-2024 at 2:19pm |
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I'm assuming you pulled the instrument cluster out of the dash. Put up a picture of the back of your instrument cluster. I rebuilt my 86 nautique cluster wiring and i've got pictures. If it looks the same, I can send you what mine looked like finished and some info on how I went about it.
Andrew |
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LennyBoat
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Posted: April-10-2024 at 12:28pm |
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Kristof, Thanks for the insight on the sticker, we'll probably go that way as well.  The fuel tank turned out to be to large, so i'm looking for a suitable replacement.
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LennyBoat
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Posted: April-10-2024 at 12:26pm |
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Small Update: Progress has slowed down a bit over the past weeks as we're trying to figure out how to proceed. I've been reading up on a dash rewire, but as I've never seen the dash and wire loom as it was installed it gets a bit confusing. I'm a bit lost if I should up the wire size for all wires in the instrument cluster or only the ones leading from the battery to the daisy chain. reading a lot about adding extra power and negative wire to the wire loom, just not really sure where to? Anyways, I'm guessing that a lot of things will become clearer when we start working on it. Not sure what happend to the shaft strut, but the 2 bearing set screws were missing the heads. I drilled a small hole in one and tried removing it with a screw remover, which broke off inside of the screw so I had to drill them out completely to remove the shaft bearing. Bearing needed a lot of convincing to be removed so I used a hand saw to almost cut through the bearing from the inside. With some gentle force everything came out.    The paint on the throttle lever body was quite crusty, so I stripped the old paint, put some coats of primer on it and some coats of black paint.   Also, this morning i received some fresh parts for the engine    |
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LennyBoat
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Posted: March-22-2024 at 9:21am |
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If that fits, that would be amazing. I'm sending him a message right now!
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Kristof
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Joined: October-08-2007 Location: Bree, Belgium Status: Offline Points: 3391 |
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Posted: March-22-2024 at 8:32am |
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My take on this: after having gone through the whole process of sanding (different grits), buffing and polishing mine, only to have the red go dull again after two summers, I decided to have the red stripe on mine stickered. Zeven years later, it is still shiny red as it should be. And, at five yards away, you can't see if it's gelcoat or a sticker.
Contact Jo. We have a tank from a later model SN laying around. Take measurements to see if it could fit... Maybe you can arrange a deal with Jo. I'll let him know later today. |
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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle... |
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LennyBoat
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Posted: March-22-2024 at 7:02am |
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On different subject, does anyone have any expierience with installing an aftermarkt fuel tank? Can't find an original in the EU, so will probably go for a polyethylene tank because they relatively cheap.
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LennyBoat
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Posted: March-22-2024 at 6:58am |
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Thanks Keno, I'm curious to see if this one still works as it should  In the meantime, one of the co-owners of the boat drew up the dimensions of the blue band that goes around the boat so we can make stickers/paint it back after painting the hull's base colour:  (It's in metric )We are choosing the base colour, and it's been quite difficult. The choices are between a very light blue, another very light blue and another very light blue:  We are trying to get something as Mastercrafts "coastal blue" but it's quite difficult to see on an NCS colour chart. The new colour of the blue stripe is still under discussion. we will wait to see what the boat looks like after the new base coulour.
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10688 |
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Posted: March-18-2024 at 11:54am |
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That would be the alarm module, it alarmed on low oil pressure, high water temperature and low volts. Here's a link to an 86 dash wiring diagram, look in the lower left corner, it doesn't show the module, but it shows all the wires on the dash plug that your plug goes into. The potentiometers were for setpoint adjustment.. link to dash diagram If you click on this link, you'll have some reading, They weren't exactly well liked because they broke a lot link to alarm module stuff
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andrewmarani
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Posted: March-18-2024 at 8:11am |
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Reminds me of something I think I saw up under my dash... I will look later today.
Andrew
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LennyBoat
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Posted: March-18-2024 at 7:22am |
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Hi Andrew, Thanks for the information! i'm not quite sure if the dimensions of the BFN are the same as the SN, but I'll update once I find out. I'll start a seperate topic about this in boat maintenance for this.
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LennyBoat
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Posted: March-18-2024 at 7:12am |
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I also found this part:  Could anyone tell me what part this is, and what the 3 potentiometers are for? Thanks!
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LennyBoat
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Posted: March-18-2024 at 7:06am |
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Did a carb overhaul and cleaning, parts for the engine rebuild should be arriving this week.  Afterwards, cleaned and degreased the inside of the boat and painted the waterproof barrier and the Bilgepaint. For the barrier we used International Gelshield and the for the bilge we used International Danboline.   |
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LennyBoat
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Posted: March-18-2024 at 6:56am |
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Hi All, Some more updates on the process of our rebuild: We foamed in the remaining part between the stringer and the floor, and glassed it over. The removeable floor panels have been made as well as the supports where they will be sitting on. The supports have been treated with epoxy, the screw holes filled with marine sealant, and we put sealant between the supports and the panel they are mounted on to keep these as dry as possible. Also did a test-fit of the interior to get a better overview of how everything should fit together.   I have to say it felt good to be sitting in the boat after all these hours of work, even if it was just temporary.  |
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63 Skier
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Posted: February-27-2024 at 7:14am |
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This is a fun project to watch, really appreciate the updates. You are making great progress!
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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TRBenj
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Posted: February-27-2024 at 6:27am |
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Interesting data points to compare but I wouldn’t expect any of them to be shared exactly between the SN and BFN.
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andrewmarani
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Posted: February-26-2024 at 10:42am |
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Hi, looks like an excellent rebuild. I'm maybe 75% through a stringer replacement on an 1986 Silver Nautique, thread is under "boat maintenance". I used Coosa for the floor and stringers, working well so far but that stuff is pricey. I've worked with Trespa through my construction company, it's both heavy and pricy unless, as noted, you can find remnants.
I also needed the location of the seats and battery box since I forgot to get them before the tear out. Got the info below from va-river-tique. These are from the face of the pylon itself, not the nut in the hull. Be very careful screwing down the driver's seat, the front right corner is basically just the floor thickness over the hull, very easy to run the screw right through the hull if it's a touch to long. Found that out a couple of years ago running my hand on the underside of the hull trying to figure out where and why I had a slow leak into the bilge. Cut my finger on the screw point. va-river-tique I took these measurements from the bow side of the pylon. pylon to base of observer's seat is 12 1/4 inches. pylon to inside edge of battery box is 26 1/4 inches. pylon to base of driver's seat is 6 inches. |
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LennyBoat
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Posted: February-26-2024 at 6:14am |
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That's correct, Won't be a large problem as we are mainly going to use it for wakeboarding, and learning to barefoot. I'm curious to see what the wake will be like for slalom, probably not great, but I can't imagine its worse than our I/O we have right now.
We are in the process of installing the rest of the floor now, and did a fitment check of the interior. Whole interior needs to be replaced, but we are thinking to have one season with the old interior, so we know what we want, and what needs to be modified to create some extra storage/speakers/cupholders/etc... I'll update with pictures soon. We are not quite sure about the location of the driver seat base. Anybody has any information on this? |
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Kristof
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Joined: October-08-2007 Location: Bree, Belgium Status: Offline Points: 3391 |
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Posted: February-15-2024 at 2:20am |
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True... And certainly not in Europe as it is not very well known over here yet  And BTW, HPL or 'Trespa' plates are quite heavy and do add quite some weight to the boat.
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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle... |
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LennyBoat
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Posted: February-14-2024 at 10:44am |
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Thanks! Indeed Coosa board seems to be a very nice material, but it's quite expensive for the moment.
HPL isn't cheap either, but you can find "scraps" or damaged panels from contractors which can't be used for construction but are perfect for the boat. I don't think you'll find leftover Coosa board. |
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67 ski nat
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Posted: February-13-2024 at 10:25am |
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Nice. Looks tight and flat.
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Kristof
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Posted: February-13-2024 at 3:06am |
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Very nice work guys!
So good to see this boat getting the attention it needs. So many times I told Jo to sell this boat to someone that will get it back in shape, since he nor I would have the time to do it. It saddened me to see this boat 'decay', even though he kept it nice and dry in his basement. She is in good hands now obviously. PS: I was never in favor of the HPL plates myself, for exactly the same reasons you mentioned. But unfortunately my preferred Coosa board way was not possible in Europe (or VERY expensive). Don't know if it would be available over here these days? Edit: apparently these guys in Germany are Coosa dealers nowadays according to the Coosa website: http://https://www.vonderlinden.de/ |
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- Gun control means: using BOTH hands!
- Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle... |
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Kristof wrote: