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kvand347 
Groupie 
Joined: September-18-2011 Location: St. Pt. WI Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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 Posted: October-14-2011 at 2:24pm |
AMEN to that! |
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kvand347
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Joined: September-18-2011 Location: St. Pt. WI Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Posted: October-14-2011 at 2:25pm |
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Check back to my first post to see the list updates. I'm hoping this might help other newbies like me!
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah 
Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: October-14-2011 at 3:26pm |
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On the speedos, there is something about that in the owners manual: Last year I was able to get some water out by just doing the mouth to mouth method on the pitot tubes.
This year, I had already jacked the front of the boat way up, and when I went to suck water out of the pitot tubes, there wasn't any water left. So maybe the tubes/speedos self drain if you leave the front raised for long enough? |
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kvand347
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Joined: September-18-2011 Location: St. Pt. WI Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Posted: October-14-2011 at 4:11pm |
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Anybody have issues with pressure washing boat? Is it okay if I use the "automotive" nozzle? I have no decals on my boat right now.
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Bri892001
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Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: October-14-2011 at 4:49pm |
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I've heard you should keep pressure washers away from the teak swim platforms. Other than that, I'm not sure.
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kvand347
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Joined: September-18-2011 Location: St. Pt. WI Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Posted: October-14-2011 at 5:15pm |
Gotcha. No teak platform here...mine's composite. |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: October-14-2011 at 5:25pm |
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I have never drained a pitot!!
I'm a believer in using a presure washer on the Teak!! Just don't get carried away with the pressure to the point it tears up the wood. Teak being such an open grain wood, there really isn't a better way of getting deep down into the grain to get the fungus/mold out. |
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Jllogan
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Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Posted: November-26-2011 at 3:44pm |
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Does anyone think it would be harmful to add stabil to a tank of gas that already has seafoam in it? Any kind of negative reaction of mixing the two?
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Jllogan
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Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Posted: November-29-2011 at 12:52pm |
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anyone?
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Bri892001
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Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:07pm |
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Justin, the only thing I have read is that seafoam isn't a good stabilizer on it's own, because the cleaning chemicals it contains are in the alcohol family. And, alcohol/ethanol is already a problem as far as phase separation stuff.
If you were worried about it, maybe you could siphon the gas out of your boat tank and run it in your car or power equipment, and then refill your boat tank and put only marine stabilizer or Startron in it. |
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Hollywood
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Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:20pm |
yes |
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21183 |
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Posted: November-29-2011 at 1:35pm |
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If Im not mistaken, most of the fuel stabilizers (Startron, Stabil, Seafoam) consist primarily of naptha, which is in the alcohol family. If you have one in there, dont add more... I would think that too much stabilizer is not a good thing.
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Terp
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Joined: November-12-2008 Location: Deep Creek Lake Status: Offline Points: 339 |
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Posted: October-30-2017 at 10:37am |
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Winterizing the GT-40 for the first time. Just curious if I can use the "pour in" method mentioned in this checklist for the antifreeze in a GT-40. Or to do it properly do I need to run it and use either a fake-a-lake, Timmy-T, or hose & bucket?
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'96 Ski Nautique
'90 Boston Whaler Montauk |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11090 |
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Posted: October-30-2017 at 11:10am |
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Draining first and using the pour in method works just fine for your GT-40
No need to run it and suck it in. Just as a reminder 2 block drains, 2 exhaust manifold drains, j tube drain and drain the trans cooler either with the drain fitting or pull the lower hose off |
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Terp
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Joined: November-12-2008 Location: Deep Creek Lake Status: Offline Points: 339 |
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Posted: October-30-2017 at 4:19pm |
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Thanks KENO. I did get all the drain plugs. Did that at the lake then trailered it 10 miles home to hopefully move all the water out. Is there a step-by-step processs for the pour in method to ensure it's properly filled and roughly how many gallons will it take?
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'96 Ski Nautique
'90 Boston Whaler Montauk |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11090 |
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Posted: October-30-2017 at 5:17pm |
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There are at least a couple of different ways that people use.
One way is to remove the cover on the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat and pour it into the engine through the big hole where the thermostat was. You'll most likely need a new gasket but this way let's you look at the general condition of the thermostat also. Another is to unhook the hose from the raw water pump to the thermostat housing and pour antifreeze in through there. Leave it hooked to the thermostat housing and elevate the end that was at the raw water pump and pour in through there. I usually make a mess and spill some on the carpet doing it this way This is slower pouring but you don't have to take anything else apart. You don't get to check out the thermostat either. 3 gallons should do it when pouring it in. |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11090 |
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Posted: October-30-2017 at 5:25pm |
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One other thing that comes to mind is the raw water pump itself.
Pull the hose off the bottom of that to make sure it's drained. Some people leave the pump and impeller alone for the winter, others take the impeller out and sleep with it under their pillow for the winter. That's personal preference, you'll get people like Pete saying that his impeller has been untouched for the last 47 years or so and others that change it every year whether it needs it or not. Others that inspect/change it every 100 hours or so And others that change it when it fails 
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BuffaloBFN wrote: