Engine rebuild questions

take it out, it really isnt that hard and trust me working on an engine stand is way easier and faster than climbing in and out of the boat.

I just finished engine replacement in my 71 Martinique. It's really easy. Be sure to mark everything and take pictures of your cooling piping. A good rebuild manual is a must. I bought a long block LM318 from marineengine.com. I swapped necessary parts from old to new and bolted it in. Good luck and enjoy.

Spun a rod bearing.

I shopped around and compared the cost to rebuild and to replace. I found my best buy at marineengine.com. It was around $2300 for a delivered long block with a 2 year warranty. The problems I had during swap were self inflicted. Motor fired right away and runs great.

I dropped off the engine parts at the machine shop Friday.
I have a couple of friends who have done engine builds, one who has an encyclopedic knowledge of engines, but seems to be a bit unsure on the reverse rotation. Well, he's pretty sure of himself, I just need reassuring.
Ford 351W in a '73 Ski Nautique:
When I disassembled the crank portion the pistons had notches facing the front of the engine (like normal), the rods and caps were numbered 1-8 (like normal): front to rear 1-4 on the right and 5-8 on the left.
The guy at the machine shop said he thought the pistons notches were supposed to face the rear on a reverse rotation engine (mentioned working on Mercury for years). I told him I was positive (video and photo reference) the pistons were arrange normally. He said there had to be an "offset" to prevent "slap" if that was the case and he would check/measure for it.
He thought someone may have dropped in an engine at some point, but:
The rod bearings dated 8 72 and the mains had 10 2, whatever that means.
Anyone have any experience, thoughts, or comments?

Gary is spot on.

Unfortunately that was to be expected with the water in the oil, then the water causes the spun bearing. You are gonna need a block that has the same rear seal configuration that you have. If it is one piece then get a one piece, two, get a two. Other than that you simply need a 351w block.. you could get one from a junk yard and have it machined or buy one that has already been recovered and machined.   

Good luck!

quick question: I'm doing my assembly, what's the best sealer to use on the rear main seal cap? The book says silicone but I'm wondering if Permatex 2B non-hardening or something else would be ok.
Also, may not be pertinent but I had the crank machined to take a one-piece rear main seal.

How is it coming along? Pics? Raw knuckles?

Honored to serve.

He really didn't want silicone in that spot; still assuming we are talking about the same spot.

I use that permatex aviation form a seal for lots of things, but not that spot. If you have to pull it all apart(beacuse the rear main is leaking) just to put the right stuff in there, you'll invent dirty words.   

I guess the NoFollow keeps the link from working. just copy and paste for pics.

Link No you just didn't do it right but here you go---

Does anyone know where to get the exhaust gaskets for the 4-bolt round-type exhaust manifold? All I see on-line are the rectangular type. I can make them but I'm running short on time and would rather buy them if they're available.

The kit came with manifold-to-head gasket but I need the ones for the rear portion (riser?)and its caps and inlets, and thermostat manifold. (sorry, not sure what all the pieces are called).

its caps and inlets, and thermostat manifold: